2012 was a year in which documented abuses of human rights reached alarming levels in Tibet. At the same time, there was an unprecedented number of self-immolations, as individual Tibetans made a fiery protest against the continuing erosion of their language, religion, culture and freedom. As a volunteer teacher in the exile community of Dharamshala the author witnessed the Tibetans' pain but also their compassion, humour and bravery at a difficult time in their existence. This is her testament to the ongoing struggle of the Tibetan people for a free Tibet, set against the ever-fascinating background of life in northern India.